Bakhchiserai

By Walter Kish

Ukraine still celebrates May Day as a public holiday, and not being particularly inclined to partake of commemorations tinged too much by soviet history, my wife and I, together with some friends, escaped for a four day long weekend in Crimea. 

As usual, we made the ancient Crimean Tatar capital of Bakhchiserai our base of operations.  During the height of the Crimean Khanate between the fifteenth and eighteenth century, this was a rich and bustling place, reflecting the power of the Girey khans who ruled most of what is now southern Ukraine.  Tribute, slaves and the spoils from constant Tatar raids into Ukraine, Poland and Russia filled the city.  The original khans made their seat of power in a fortress now called Chufut Kale that sits atop a high and difficult to reach escarpment at the eastern end of the town.  At the beginning of the fifteen hundreds, a magnificent palace complex was built in the valley where the old town of Bakhchiserai now sits and the khans relocated to its more pleasant and comfortable surroundings.  It is worth noting that most of the labourers that built the palace were Ukrainian and Russian slaves.

The relationship between the Tatars and their northern Ukrainian neighbours was an uneasy one.  Though Tatars were longtime historical enemies, there were many times during Ukraine’s troubled history, particularly in the sixteenth and seventeenth century during the Hetman Cossack era, when they became allies against either Polish or Russian incursions.  Undoubtedly, numerous hetmans and their envoys partook of the splendour of the Khan’s palace while negotiating mutual support.

Catherine II put an end to Tatar rule in Crimea in the eighteenth century.  However, much of the palace was spared the destruction that most Tatar mosques and buildings endured in the wake of the Russian conquering armies.  In recent years, much of the palace complex has been restored, and the palace has become a popular tourist site.

My favourite spot to visit in Bakhchiserai however, is Chufut Kale, the ancient fortress site at the top of one of the escarpments that surround much of the old city.  Aside from the archeological remains of the various cultures that at one time or another called this home, what is particularly fascinating is a rich complex of caves hewn out of the rock that proliferate this scenic rocky landscape.  There are apparently dozens of similar such “cave cities” scattered around the Crimean mountains, but Chufut Kale is among the most interesting.

What is striking about many of these caves is that they are not just rough holes painstakingly dug out of the rock.  The creators of these cave complexes were artisans of some ability, carving out multi-room and sometimes two storied habitats with benches, windows, stairs, cooking pits and even sit-down toilets carved out of solid stone.  Particular attention was paid to ensuring that the cave had a scenic vista overlooking the valley and surrounding landscape. 

Asi-de from their functionality, these cave complexes were easily defensible, being accessible only by steep trails that were and still remain little more than goat trails.  Getting to the Chufut Kale requires a kilometer and half climb that can be strenuous to those not in reasonable physical shape, yet the effort is rewarded with spectacular views of the countryside as well as a historical and cultural experience that is quite unique.

Bakhchiserai in many ways reminds me of a somewhat undeveloped Provence or Tuscany in terms of its climate, countryside and bucolic charm.  Yet, for all its attractions, it is as yet poorly equipped from a tourist infrastructure point of view with a dearth of decent hotels and restaurants.  I have been fortunate to have found a charming local bed and breakfast place run by a delightful Tatar couple who for fifty dollars per head per night, will accommodate you in a recently built villa with modern facilities, with a delectable Tatar breakfast and dinner included.  The spectacular Crimean seacoast, the Crimean mountains, Yalta, Sevastopol, Balaclava and many other points of interest are all about an hour’s drive from Bakhchiserai, so it makes for a convenient base of operations for any Crimean holiday.  It is a distinctive and historical part of Ukraine that is well worth the visit.