Ukraine: A First Time Visitor’s Experience

By Alexandra Charuk-Kindrat – Canadian election observer in Ukraine for the September 30^th, 2007 pre-term parliamentary elections.

My first experience travelling through Ukraine was much more than anything I could have ever imagined.  During my lifetime, I had certainly seen what seemed like an extensive display of Ukrainian photos, exhibits, and movies, and yet these paled in comparison to the actual diversity, uniqueness, and grandeur of experiencing Ukraine in person.

 On Saturday, September 22, 2007, I travelled from Montreal to Kyiv, in eager anticipation of what was to come over the next two weeks.  After my long overnight journey, I was greeted at Borypsil Airport with the hustle and bustle of anxious travellers and the sound of angry car horns as their drivers attempted to vacate the busy parking lot.  Overwhelmed at first by my inability to comprehend Russian, I was greeted by a Ukrainian-speaking driver, and began what was to be an exhilarating and fast-paced two weeks in the country of my ancestors. 

After a short drive through the outskirts of Kyiv, I settled into my hotel and met up with fellow Montrealers for what was to be an extraordinary first day in Ukraine.  Despite my fatigue, I began my tour of Kyiv, first getting acquainted with Khreshchatyk Street and its sights, and Independence Square.  I visited St. Sophia’s Cathedral where I lit candles for my grandparents and reflected upon how their lives and hardships ultimately shaped my existence.  My presence in this church was extremely special and it was almost as though I could feel a connection with my grandparents by my presence at this most holy sight.  

The following day, I met fellow election observers from  across Canada and learned about the mission I was about to undertake.  I would travel by train to Ternopil via Lviv with a group of ten observers.  From there, our group would split into three: one group would remain in Lviv, another would travel to Ivano-Frankivsk, and my group of three would go to Ternopil. 

The following night, our group travelled overnight by train to Lviv.  Famished from the day’s activities, I was invited to take part with my fellow observers for an “on-board feast”, which included kovbassa, cheese, and bread. With the soft rumble of the engines and a filled tummy, I quickly fell asleep.

Six hours later, I awoke to the sounds of Ukrainian polka music from the train’s sound system, and I knew that we had arrived.  We checked into our hotel, and then we set off to tour Lviv.   This time, however, I immediately noticed the character of the locals was more familiar to me, and the Ukrainian language was prominent everywhere.  This was once home to my father’s parents and it immediately became a place close to my heart.

With my fellow observers, I visited the bazaar, and bought traditional Ukrainian blouses, vests, and other memorabilia for my family.  We then moved on to take in political candidate Yulia Tymoshenko’s most enthusiastic rally at Prospect Svobody where we were amongst thousands of spectators.  After her discourse, we visited polling stations in the area and learned more about the work we would be undertaking in the days to come. We later visited Ploshcha Rynok, a large shopping area, where we had the opportunity to shop and dine at a local traditional Ukrainian restaurant.

The next morning, with two other election observers, I travelled to Ternopil by train. I learned that my region for observation would be the region of Chortkiv, roughly an hour’s drive south from Ternopil.  Once we settled into our hotel and familiarized ourselves with our surroundings, we began our hour drive to the region of Chortkiv. 

During the next days, I became very familiar with the road to Chortkiv.  It was a two lane road, one lane in each direction, allowing for courageous drivers to pass in the oncoming lane.  There was always plenty to see on our trip to and from Chortkiv.  There were cows and horses parading on the sidelines of the street, plenty of nut and apple vendors in every small town, and many roundabout intersections. 

We visited many polling stations in the days that followed. Before Election Day, we met with officials from each station, observed the distribution of ballots, and were finally present in Ternopil for the opening and closing of the polling stations on Election Day. 

I saw many different polling stations, in various regions surrounding Ternopil.  Each had its own special character and style.  Some took care to fit their booths with precisely measured blue and yellow materials, while others were equally content to have ribbons of Ukraine’s national colours draped across the tops of the booths.  Each polling station was different, but the officials at each station were extremely proud of their proper station and all had a sense of accomplishment in fulfilling their civic duty in organizing the election for their area.

Following the closing of the polls at 10 pm, we remained counting the ballots until 3 am.  Each ballot was unfolded systematically, and placed in its appropriate pile according by whom the voter had selected.  This procedure was lengthy, as the officials were required to sort through over two thousand ballots.  Reporters, other election observers, and numerous security guards remained in the locked station until the last ballot was counted.  We were exhausted but enjoyed the process immensely.  Content with our mission being fulfilled, we retreated to our hotel and enjoyed our last night as election observers.  Our mission was completed.

Back in Montreal now, the experience seems surreal.  Part of my heart remains in Ukraine with the country’s warmth and beauty and familiarity.  I am richer for the experience and for the friendships that I made during my visit.  I can now completely understand why it was so important that my grandparents kept their experiences of Ukraine and its most beautiful traditions and culture alive.

I am most grateful and would like to thank the Montreal Branch of the Ukrainian National Federation and the Caisse populaire Desjardins Ukrainienne de Montral for their generous financial contribution in supporting my participation in the Ukrainian Canadian Congress’ election observer mission.

Alexandra Charuk-Kindrat is President of the 2007 Montreal Ukrainian Festival and recipient of the Ukrainian Youth Leadership Award given by the Ukrainian Canadian Congress at its XXII Triennial Congress in October 2007.