Krakiw

By Walter Kish

Last week my wife and I escaped the incomprehensible political situation in Ukraine for a short holiday in Krakiw, Poland’s most beautiful and historic city.

There is direct daily train service between Kyiv and Krakiw, which, at 14 hours is somewhat lengthy, though the Polish rolling stock is considerably newer and more comfortable than Ukrainian trains. The train departs near eleven at night, clearing the Polish border at around ten the following morning and arrives in Krakiw in the early afternoon. Customs and Immigration formalities at the border were fairly routine–taking only about a half-hour on exiting the Ukrainian side and another half-hour on entry into Poland proper. I was impressed that both the Ukrainian and Polish border officials had portable, modern scanning computers that made the process quick and straightforward.

The scene that greeted us on crossing the border through Peremyshl and onwards to Krakiw impressed us with houses and villages much newer, neater and more prosperous than their counterparts in Ukraine. It is obvious that Poland has made considerably more economic progress since the fall of the Iron Curtain and the Soviet Union than has Ukraine.

Krakiw itself proved to be a historical gem and well worthy of its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was spared any significant damage during the Second World War, and since Poland’s latest hard-earned independence, the historic old town core has been magnificently renovated. It can be favourably compared to Prague, Budapest or Vienna for its historical charm and beauty. The old town square claims to be the largest and best-preserved of its kind in Europe, and wandering around the nearby side streets and neighbourhoods is an incomparable experience. 

The necessary tourist infrastructure has also kept pace and the quantity and quality of the accommodation, restaurant, retail and attraction services were as good as any I’ve experienced in Europe. Fortunately, prices have not yet caught up to the ridiculous levels to be found elsewhere in Europe, so that you can still get a decent hotel near the old town for under a $100 a night, enjoy a hearty and tasty meal with drinks for $10 to $15, and visit the main sights and attractions for the equivalent of $5 to $10.

Krakiw has a long history, with the earliest mentions dating to 965AD. It became the capital of the newly established kingdom of Poland in 1038 and remained so until the 17th century, when the center of power shifted to Warsaw. In the 14th century, Casimir the Great built the imposing Wawel Castle on a hill overlooking the Wisla River, and the restored castle now serves as one of Krakiw’s most popular tourist sites. Most of Poland’s kings were crowned in the Wawel cathedral, which sits on the castle grounds. Some 16 of them are currently buried in the cathedral’s crypts, together with other prominent figures from Poland’s history, such as the poet Adam Mickiewicz and the prominent historical military figures Tadeusz Kosciuszko and Marshal Pilsudski.

Another favourite with visitors to Krakiw is the Jagiellonian University, established in 1364 and the second oldest continuously operating university in Europe after the Charles University in Prague. Among its most prominent alumni were Copernicus and the late Pope John Paul II. 

Probably one of the more interesting and eclectic parts of our trip was a visit to the salt mine in the nearby town of Wieliczka. Salt has been mined here since the middle ages and the current mine boasts of over 300 kilometres of tunnels and some 3000 chambers. Visitors are escorted on a two- to three-hour tour covering some two kilometres of tunnels and visiting 22 chambers to a depth of some 135 metres. Over the centuries, miners as well as talented amateurs have carved incredible sculptures and chambers out of the solid salt deposits.

There are numerous chapels, the most incredible being the St. Kinga chapel whose dimensions are some 54-metres long by 18-metres wide by 12-metres high. The altar, pulpit and numerous statues are carved out of solid salt, and the walls filled with carved reliefs of biblical scenes. The mine also contains a large concert hall, restaurant and reception rooms. Visiting this underground work of art was one of the most unique and enjoyable experiences I have ever had.

Krakiw should definitely be included on every European visitor’s “must see” list. It also stands as a good example of what many Ukrainian cities, especially Lviv, could achieve with a little effort and investment.