Lutsk: Ancient Pearl of Volyn

By Roman Tashleetsky

Most tourists who visit Ukraine want to see Kyiv and Lviv. But there are lesser-known cities that are just as interesting.  Lutsk, the administrative centre of Volyn, situated north-east of Lviv, is one of them.

 History: The Volynian Rome

The first known documented reference to Luchesk, the ancient name of Lutsk, dates to the year 1085. The town adopted its modern name in the 14th century. There are three hypotheses concerning the etymology of Lutsk’s name: it was derived from the old-Slavic word “luka”, an arc or bend of a river; from Luka, the chieftain of an ancient Slavic tribe that lived in the area; or from “Luchany,” a branch of the aforementioned tribe.

The town was the capital of Halych-Volynia until 1199. During Lithuanian rule (14th century) the town began to prosper. It grew quickly and, by the end of the 15th century, it had 19 Orthodox and 2 Catholic churches.  Lutsk was the holy seat of Catholic and Orthodox bishops, and, as a result, was nicknamed the Volynian Rome. In 1429, monarchs met in Lutsk to discuss how to handle the Tartar threat. In 1569, Volynia was fully incorporated into Poland.

By the mid-17th century, Lutsk had approximately 50,000 inhabitants and was one of the biggest towns in the area. In 1795 in the Partitions of Poland, Russia annexed Lutsk, and the town lost its significance as the capital of the province.

After the First World War, Lutsk was annexed by Poland, and in 1939 as a result of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact, it was annexed by the Soviet Union. Most of Lutsk’s factories and their machinery (including the most modern radio transmitter) were dismantled and sent to Russia. Approximately 10,000 of the city’s inhabitants were sent to the Gulag or arrested by the NKVD. The city eventually became an industrial centre in the Ukrainian SSR.

Being one of the largest cities of Western Ukraine, in 2003 Lutsk hosted the General Consulate of Poland. The current estimated population is around 202,500.

What to see and do?

I would advise a first-time visitor to Lutsk to start their tour at the central Volia Avenue. Several years ago it was significantly widened and  renovated; Lutsk’s residents are justified in proudly calling it “genuinely European.”  The avenue attracts tourists with the colourful facades of its buildings, numerous flowerbeds, and a fountain facing Lesia Ukrainka Park. Here one can also see the ostentatiously grand main building of the University of Volyn (formerly the building belonged to the Communist Party), and behind it, the Museum of Volynian Icons (open daily 10:00-18:00 except for Wednesday and Saturday).

Walking along Volia Avenue to the downtown you will come to the majestic 18th-century Sviato-Troyitsky Orthodox Cathedral, and from here to Lesia Ukrainka Street. It is pleasant to walk along this always-crowded pedestrian-only street, lined with many ancient buildings, in the shadows of trees, without being bothered by cars. Lesia Ukrainka Street leads directly to city’s historical-cultural preserve, the Old Town.

Located there is the pearl of Lutsk – the Castle of Lubart (named after the ruler of Halych-Volynia). There are no modern buildings around the castle, and being there one feels as if one is in the Middle Ages.  Erected in 13th-14th centuries, the castle consists of three towers connected by a stone enclosure. On the territory are the Art Museum and the Museum of Books. Take a walk along the castle’s enclosure from where there is a panoramic view of modern Lutsk. In one of the towers there is a collection of bells. From time to time, tournaments of knights are conducted here. Entrance to the castle costs 4 hryvnias (for children, 2 hryvnias). The castle is open daily from 10:00-19:00.

From the castle, walk through the old square paved with stone to get to the building of the Peter and Paul Catholic Cathedral with the belfry in front of it. (The temple was built in 1606; the belfry in 1539.)  You might catch a service or concert–the functioning cathedral is also a regular venue for concerts of organ music. Artists like to work by the cathedral; painted together with the castle in the background it makes for a wonderful composition.

Nearby there are four-level underground passages. During the period when trade prospered in the 16th century, they were used as a storehouse and, later, a prison. The site is not always open, but if it is, I recommend descending: one feels uneasy in the tight solitary cell where a prisoner might have spent years.

Not far from the cathedral there is a two-storey building that is noteworthy for the fact that in 1890-91 the Kosach family, the family of prominent poetesses Olena Pchilka and Lesia Ukrainka, lived there. Walking away from the building one can see the Gothic-style spire of the Lutheran Church (early 20th century), which is now Gospel House. Passing a narrow street behind the church you will come to an open area along the river Styr where there is an intricately designed house that a local architect has been building for years. The house also attracts attention for the many sculptures on its grounds.

Going back in the direction of the General Consulate of Poland, you will find Pokrova Church (13th-17th centuries). You will have completed a circle and will again come to Lesia Ukrainka Street.

In addition to these main sites of Lutsk, there are other places of interest, such as the Fortified Synagogue (Little Castle dating to the 15th century) the Dominican Monastery (14th century).

 Local Lore

There are many local legends connected to the castle. One of them is depicted on the emblem of Lutsk. According to this legend, when an enemy’s army approached the town, a princess came out of the castle. The chief of the approaching army thought she was going to deliver the key to the town to them, but she stabbed him with a dagger, and the enemy’s army fled.

Where to stay and eat?

There are eight hotels in Lutsk, but I’d recommend staying at Ukrayina hotel. It is situated in the heart of Lutsk and all the main sites are within walking distance. Besides, a couple of years ago it was fully renovated and provides decent service at a reasonable price (starting from about 100 hryvnias per night).

Lutsk is abundant in restaurants, cafes and bars, especially in the downtown. The students’ favourite cafe, Mriya (on Volia Avenue) belongs to the Lutsk confectionary and serves all kinds of cakes and sweets manufactured there. For refined dining visit well-known restaurants, such as Korona Vitovta, not far from the castle. There are also several pizzerias, including Felicita and San Remo, where prices are not high. A pizza costs approximately 15 hryvnias; a cake, 2-3 hryvnias; a cup of coffee or one beer, about 3 hryvnias. Dinner at a restaurant starts from 40 hryvnias.

 How to get there?

From Kyiv you can take one of the overnight trains–Kyiv-Kovel or Kyiv-Lutsk (50-60 hryvnias)­–or take a bus (about 5-6 hours). If you want to visit Lutsk from Lviv, it is better to travel by bus (about 20 hryvnias; 3 hours).

Visit the official website of Lutsk http://www.lutsk.ua/lutsk_ua/english/english.html for additional information.