Becoming a True “Lvivyanka”

By Adria Pelensky

Being a highly organized person, but displaying a flair for the compulsive when it comes to travel, I began making lists of things to bring before moving away to work abroad. Concerned that I would forget something, this list system proved crucial to my pre-departure sanity, and thus I jotted notes frantically. Necessary purchases at Shoppers Drug Mart for Imodium and hand sanitizer, stocking up on Canadiana gifts like ice wine and maple syrup and laundering all the clothes I planned on taking with me.

We all have our favourite outfits to wear. Some outfits, because they’re comfortable. Some, because they’re fashionable and others because of their functionality. Whatever the reason, or combination thereof, when packing for travel, you have to be selective.  Instead of thinking about which travel insurance to purchase, I was concerning myself with what outfits to bring and worst of all, which shoes to go along with them.

The critical question is always one relating to shoes. You want to bring as little as possible, but you want to be prepared for every instance. You need versatility, but also something elegant. You want comfort, but you also need style.  You need something for work and for play. These are considerations for a single season, now imagine three - Autumn, Winter and Spring.

I spoke with many of my female friends who had travelled and lived in Ukraine for an extended amount of time, and many recommendations were made in regards to ‘must bring’ items. The most consistent advice came pertaining to fashion. A friend who had lived in Kyiv for work said to me, “It’s okay to look just a little bit ridiculous. In Ukraine it’s considered fashionable.” Those were my navigating words for my packing selections.

In my folding and stacking phases of trip preparation, I began sorting which shoes would be reasonable for this journey. I knew what I would wear in Toronto, but certainly if I wanted to blend into Lviv, alternate choices would have to be made.  As a tall female, I tend to shy away from wearing heals, especially day-to-day, however, that would soon change. As luck would have it, my mother had horded much of her clothes and shoes from the early 1980’s.  Pulling a muscle, twisting an ankle, developing hammer toe or bunions for the elevation provided by a shoe, was a small price to pay for fashion. For what these gems lacked in comfort, they certainly made up for in style. As I was rationalizing my selection, my caring boyfriend laughed at me puzzled as to when I was going to wear these shoes. Regardless, I made a few selections and packed my bags.  

Upon arrival, I knew that I had made the right choices. Silver point toe pumps, tan boots with straps, patent black leather heels. I knew I would have to condition myself to this new apparel so I insisted on wearing some variation of healed shoe every day, although I did allow flats on Saturday’s so I could enjoy walking through parks like Shevchenkivskyj Hai and Vysokyj Zamok. Just after the first week I noticed that my shoes were not holding up to the streets of Lviv. The rubber tips of my heels were lost, the metal core exposed, the leather peeling up, ripped, destroyed. “Would I have to buy new shoes?” I thought. “Nope” - Lviv has mastered the craft of shoe repair.

In my early wanderings through the city, I noticed consistent signage titled “Remont Vzutia” (repair shoes).  Typically tucked into small rooms through courtyards and gated driveways, these signs went seemingly unnoticed in my first weeks. It was not in my mindset to ever fix my shoes, rather, to just replace them. “What would ever necessitate this need?” I thought. Cobblestones. A perfectly good shoe would have a very limited life if it was not for this service. Through the recommendation of a co-worker, I ventured to one near work. For less than three dollars my shoes were spared and reinforced to handle the Lvivan elements.  For the first time since I arrived, I felt like a true “Lvivyanka.”     

Recently, I made a foolish error in my acclimatisation to “blend in”. While travelling, I choose comfort and practicality over style. Knowing that I would be doing a lot of walking with little rest, I opted for my casual Diesel-brand running shoes that I bought while in Kyiv some two years ago. During transit, I was awoken from my nap by two ladies laughing and discussing my shoes. Hearing only part of the dialogue, I was confused by their issue. Could it be that this babushka knew that they were last season’s model? Or was the lack-of-heal too much to bear? Not enough dangling accessories or rhinestones? Before I could inquire, shocking them with my understanding of the Ukrainian language since they assumed I was a foreigner, they were off at their stop.

So ladies, when travelling to Ukraine, bring the shoes you think you won’t wear, because you will and you’ll be appreciated for it.

 Adria Pelensky is a Canadian and CIDA intern as Project Coordinator, Community Development in Ukraine.