Studying in Ternopil

By Adrian Dzioba

I have learned about my Ukrainian background through family, friends, and the Ukrainian community in Ottawa.  But, learning second-hand wasn’t enough. I felt that I needed to visit the country itself.  My chance came recently when I was accepted to an eight-week study program in Ternopil, Ukraine (May-June 2006) through St. Thomas More College at the University of Saskatchewan. Not only would I see the country of my grandparents, but I would also receive university credits towards my Bachelor Degree in History from Carleton University.

I was excited to be traveling to Ukraine, where I would meet up with the group of 11 students who were traveling from Saskatoon for the program with Professor Natalia Shostak, of St. Thomas More College. Arriving in Ukraine was intimidating, but I reminded myself of two important advantages: I spoke Ukrainian and had family in Lviv.

The program, offered at the Ternopil National Pedagogical University (TNPU), was divided into two sessions: a Ukrainian Language Program followed by a Culture Program given in English. Language classes, at the beginner, intermediate and advanced levels, were taught four hours daily over a period of five weeks. The Culture Program, conceived as an anthropology field school, consisted of two courses combining lectures and excursions: Anthropological Perspectives on Ukraine (English), and Oral History and Storytelling (English/Ukrainian) given by professor Natalia Shostak

I was one of two students in the advanced Ukrainian language class given by Professor Olena Huzar, Chair of Ukrainian Philology (TNPU), which focused on grammar, dialogue and oral readings.  We were taught proper pronunciation with correct syllabic stresses and conversational styles.  Local students, with knowledge of both Ukrainian and English, were assigned to each participant. My tongue was tired from speaking so much, but my speech and fluency improved noticeably.

The weekends were filled with excursions outside Ternopil, led by TNPU professors.  We saw the countryside and historical landmarks. We also toured the cities of Kyiv and Lviv and the Carpathian region, where students climbed Hoverla, the highest mountain in Ukraine, and conducted oral history interviews with local villagers as a part of their coursework. 

Of the 12 Canadian students in total who participated in this program (one from MacEwan College in Edmonton, four from InterCordia Canada, but most from the University of Saskatchewan), many had Ukrainian ties but were not fluent in the language. 

We stayed with hosts, who provided the perfect opportunity to interact with a typical Ukrainian family. My hosts, the Voloshyn family (father, mother, and three boys–18-year-old twins and a 15-year-old), live in a single house in a new district of Ternopil. I was treated as a member of their family and spoke Ukrainian with them. Evenings were free to enjoy Ternopil and the cultural scene, such as the Ukrainian musical comedy, Shakira, as long as everyone returned home safely. But, occasionally, we did see our professors strolling in the evening keeping an eye out for us. 

Our four-day excursion to Kyiv, by overnight train, was particularly memorable. The sleeping carriages accommodated four people and were clean and comfortable.  After sightseeing tours and museum stops during the day, we explored the city centre and visited the restaurants, beer tents and street vendors in the evening.  By closing the main streets to vehicular traffic, city officials have created giant walkways for pedestrians. Massive floodlights keep the main square, Maidan, lit brightly.  We even attended the opera, Carmen, sung in French at the beautiful Kyiv opera house before heading for a club.

Kyiv, the capital of Ukraine, and home to four million people, is a cosmopolitan city that is busy 24 hours a day. With its crowded sidewalks, noisy vehicles clogging the roadways, and new structures under construction, Kyiv reminded me of an Eastern European version of Toronto.  North American businesses and products were everywhere, from GAP clothing to McDonald’s.

 Many Soviet landmarks still remain among the new Ukrainian monuments in Kyiv whereas none can be found in Ternopil.  While Kyiv inhabitants speak both Ukrainian and Russian, I heard mostly Russian. 

Our three-day visit to Lviv started with a three-hour train ride from Ternopil covering 127 km. We purchased general tickets and chatted with the other passengers. In Lviv, we attended lectures at the Ukrainian Catholic University on the city’s history, women’s issues in Ukraine and the political views of Eastern and Western Ukrainians. We learned that Western Ukrainians are more nationalistic and promote the Ukrainian identity.  Eastern Ukrainians do likewise but also promote political and social tolerance or accommodation to Russia.  Of course, the excursion would not have been complete without a trip downtown to visit the vendors and cafes.

My stay in Ukraine was enjoyable because I polished my language skills and explored a new part of the world.  I can recall several occasions where I translated for classmates and tourists but I soon discovered that my vocabulary, learned in Canada, contains many words that had been forgotten by Ukrainians, sometimes due to Russian influences.  So, at times, I also had communication problems.

I think that Ukrainians in Ukraine are more conservative than my community in Canada.  This can be traced to the country’s history of constant occupation by a foreign power determined to put an end to the Ukrainian culture.  Even today people feel that they must promote the language, traditions and history to survive as a distinct and independent nation, in addition to developing a strong economy. 

Although Ukrainians are conservative in general, they do know how to enjoy themselves.  Ukrainians’ enthusiasm at the World Cup Soccer games was contagious.  Ukraine was competing for the first time, and I witnessed boisterous demonstrations of Ukrainian pride in the streets of Ternopil.  These street celebrations lasted about 40 minutes before everyone headed to the bars to continue celebrating.   

My study abroad to Ternopil, through St. Thomas More College and the University of Saskatchewan, was worth every dollar. I received a $500 bursary from the Ukrainian Canadian Foundation of Taras Shevchenko (Winnipeg), which supports Canadian students taking part in educational programs in Ukraine.  I recommend this program to students without hesitation. Whether you know Ukrainian or not, a willingness to learn will ensure your stay is memorable.  The academic staff members organizing this program, notably professor Natalia Shostak, ensure that students are looked after well and learn much. 

For information about the next study abroad program in Ukraine, visit St. Thomas More College's website: www.stmcollege.ca/ukraine.html Registration takes place in February.

  PHOTO

From L. to R.: Professor Natalia Shostak, two tutors from TNPU and Adrian Dzioba