Kyiv’s Magical Places

 

By Walter Kish

I was reminded recently how many truly interesting and scenic places grace Kyiv with their presence.

 

I was sitting in an outdoor amphitheatre set on the edge of the escarpment overlooking the Dnipro River behind the Mariyinsky Palace enjoying a wonderful classical concert. Under a clear blue sky, the energetic crescendos of a Rossini overture filled the air, and the thousand or so people taking in this free symphonic concert were obviously enjoying the pleasant midsummer’s evening. The orchestra sat under a stage covered by a sweeping, arched, wooden roof reminiscent of the graceful prow of a Viking ship. The stunning architecture and enchanting surroundings make this as fine an outdoor entertainment venue as I have seen anywhere, and one of the magical places that abound in Kyiv.

 

As I strolled home through one of the many parkland trails that thread through central Kyiv, I got to thinking about some of the many magical places that I have discovered during my stay in this charming city.

 

I have often mentioned that Kyiv is a pedestrian’s paradise. Whether you want to explore the historical byways of the central core or take in the verdant splendour of its many parks, there is no shortage of enticing choices. One of my favourites is the park behind St. Michael’s Cathedral. Here you can find some of the best vantage points from which to view the magnificent Dnipro, with excellent vistas of the lower city in Podil, as well as the islands downriver. The park is dotted with eclectic sculptures that are both enchanting and humorous. My favourite is a statue of what appears to be a Neanderthal squatting on the ground, his face upturned, catching the warming rays of the sun. Just below one of the vantage points stands the famous statue of St. Volodymyr overlooking the river where he baptized his subjects in 988AD and changed Ukrainian history forever. From the park you can descend along one of many trails that stretch for kilometers along the escarpment. 

 

A more modest yet equally enjoyable spot is a wonderful little beer garden on Volodymyrska St., almost midway between the St. Sophia and St. Michael Cathedrals. Several dozen colourful patio-umbrellas cover wood and wrought iron tables, which surround a central fountain. The sound of the splashing water is wonderfully therapeutic, and the views of the two finest churches in Kyiv are truly spectacular. It is my favourite place in Kyiv to while away a few hours talking with friends, reading a book, or just watching the world go by. And of course, the beer is cold and, as they say here, “democratically” priced.

 

Kyiv is also home to many a fine dining establishment; one of my favourites is relatively unknown to Kyiv’s nouveau riche, fast-spending crowd. One takes a stroll to the end of Khreshchatyk Ave and climbs the hill to where the large “Brotherhood” arch stands overlooking the river. From there, stairs lead down the escarpment to the pedestrian bridge that connects to Trukhaniv Island in the middle of the Dnipro. Right at the end of the bridge on the left is a bucolic little restaurant, with a large yard surrounded by wattle fencing. Within the yard are a half dozen rustic wooden tables, tree-stump stools and benches surrounded by tools and artifacts typical of an old Ukrainian village. The menu is short and simple – primarily an assortment of salads and a variety of shashliky and grilled fish. Good, hearty, and utterly delicious food at reasonable prices.

 

The cook is a grandfatherly type who grills the main courses on a homemade fireplace in one corner of the yard. The resident cat wanders around the yard looking for handouts. One sits in the open air, removed from the sounds and smells of the big city and cannot help but enjoy this temporary escape from civilization.

 

Of course, this list could go on for a long time. One cannot speak of interesting places in Kyiv without mentioning Andriyivskiy Uzviz, that kilometer-plus stretch of cobblestone street that contains both art and kitsch, souvenirs and treasures, history and tourist traps. Then, too, there is St. Sophia’s, the thousand year-old shrine to our Orthodox past, whose interiors invoke awe and spiritual feelings in even the most die-hard of religious skeptics.

The Botanical Garden behind Taras Shevchenko University is a natural little forest oasis in the heart of Kyiv.

 

And there are many more. But writing about them can’t do them proper justice – one must come and experience these places for oneself!